Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Euro Trip 2014: Belgium

The last time we went to France was for the 24 hours of Le Mans. After the race we went to Brittany followed by the D day beaches of Normandy. This time we decided to try something different. We decided to check out the Northern Belgium cities of Bruges and Ghent, followed by a stop in the Norman cities of Rouen and Honfluer (to break up the drive to Le Mans), and finally our final destination Le Mans for the historic 24 hours. I know what you're asking yourself, "do you have to go to a race to go on vacation?" Well the answer is why not? The races we choose are not like going to you're local NASCAR or Indycar race. They're events. A quarter million people don't go to central France every year to just see cars go in circles. Anyways. Back to Belgium.

My dad and I got up early to take two trains needed to get to Garre de Lyon where we picked up our rental car. When traveling with four adults and a kid we've found renting a car is the way to go. Dragging luggage around airport and train stations, while corralling a toddler sounds like a nightmare (maybe not quite colon cancer level nightmare, but I'd imagine a close second). So Dad and I successfully got our car, a VW half wagon half van with an automatic (first automatic I've driven in Europe, they tend to like manuals) and made our way to the apartment to pick up the rest of the crew. We successfully navigated back to the apartment through Paris rush hour, packed the car and set of towards Belgium.

I love road trips and road tripping in Europe is no different. Around lunch time we stopped at a French road stop. French interstate system is a bit different than the US one (at least out West). First, they cost money to drive on and second, exits off of them are far and few between. So, every so often there is a road stop consisting of gas stations, a convenience store, and a restaurant or two (actually alot like the road stops in New York state, but with bettter food). After a tasty little lunch and some caffine we got back on the road. I will say that I wish American drivers would take some lessons from their European counterparts. Why? Because nothing gets under my skin quicker than 5 lanes of traffic on 880 all going 63 mph. The Europeans use the left lanes as they suppose to be used, as passing lanes.

We finally reached Bruges, checked into the hotel, got settled in our rooms, and then headed downtown for some exploring and dinner. It's strange walking through a touristy  downtown area in europe around dinner time because everything is closed. With the later European dinners (7pm-ish) and most shops closing around 5pm it's strange for us Americans who are use to stuff being open all night long. First order of business in Bruges some moules et frites (mussels and french fries) and Belgian beer. After a tasty dinner we made our way back to the hotel room for a little sleep.

Oliver waving to the canal tour boat on the way to dinner
Checking out some of the shop windows
Sushi chef nutcracker...how cool
My drink and Oliver's
Bruges Bell Tower
Lindsey, Oliver and me with the Bruges canals and bell tower in the background
After breakfast we made our way to the Church of Our Lady to check out the Madonna. Supposedly the Madonna in Bruges is the only statue by Michelangelo that left Italy in his lifetime. During WWII the Germans stole the statue and brought it back to Germany in hopes of putting it in the Fuerher Museum, but the war ended the Russians and the Americans were both looking for the stolen antiquities. The Russians were bringing the ones they found back to Moscow and the Americans were bringing them back to their owners. Luckily the Americans found the Madonna statue first in a salt mine in Austria and returned it to the rightful owner the Church of Our Lady in Bruges. We made our way back to the main square for lunch. I had more moules et frites and of course Belgian beer, I'm not sure a day went by in Belgium that I didn't have moules et frites.

Lindsey and Oliver checking out Michelangelo's Madonna
The Madonna
Oliver lighting prayer candles
Lunch time, Moules et Frites down the hatch

When the moules and beer were gone, we set off for the De Halve Maan brewery to drink more beer. The De Halve Maan brewery is one of the oldest in all of Belgium. We took the tour which was pretty cool (highly recommended for anyone visiting Bruges). They bring you to the roof of their building which gives you a great overview of Bruges. After a dinner not worth discussing we hit the sack.

Screwing around on the way to the Brewery
Hey there's a moon
Time to drink beer!!
Don't worry just apple juice
The next day we got back in the car to visit another Belgian medieval town called Ghent. I was impressed by the parking lot. illuminated signs telling you how many spot were available down each row. Then red and green LEDs above each spot. Red meaning occupied and green meaning open. As you pulled into the spot the LED would turn red. Awesome, if it eliminates the jack ass that goes 2 mph down each row not wanting to miss a spot. Ghent wasn't crowded that day so we didn't witness if it really worked, but a solid idea none the less. Anyways, we did go to Ghent to see something other than a parking lot.

Yes I'm a nerd I took pictures of the parking signs
Green = Empty, Red = Full pretty cool
Ghent is famous for the altarpiece in St. Bavo's Catherdral. It was very detailed for the time period and another of the antiquities that the Germans stole that was returned by the Americans. After checking out the altarpiece, visiting another cathedral, and lighting a prayer candle (Oliver was a fan of lighting the candles), we found a place for lunch. When our stomachs were full we visited  Gravensteen a castle. Oliver was really excited to see where the knights lived. While we found a mannequin being drawn and quartered (not exactly something we wanted to explain to our three year old) all we could find were swords and suits of armor. No knights to be found. Oliver was definitely a fan of the Castle. After we saw the castle we found some proper waffles. In my opinion the waffles billed as Beligian waffles here in the states kind of suck. They are bland unless you heap on gobs whipped cream and strawberries. We found Liege (a town in Eastern Belgium) waffles. They are awesome. A yeast based dough with sugar pearls mixed in and the sugar pearls on the surface that touch the waffle iron caramelize. Fabulous. Also got some Ghent noses, jelly bean like candies that you can't export out of Belgium due to their short shelf life, that are pretty tasty as well. When we were all done in Ghent we made it back to Bruges and had some more moules et frites.

Oliver and Me in one of Ghent's cathedrals
Sante
Another cathedral another prayer candle
Lindsey and Me with Castle Gravensteen in the background
Liege waffles and Ghent noses on the far right
Oliver can't wait to take a bite
View from the top of Gravensteen Castle
Knight's sword
King of the castle...king of the castle
Castle Gravensteen
Oliver looking over the parapets
Climbing in Castles is tiring
More moules
The next day we decided to check out the Chocolate and Frite museums as well as go for a canal boat ride in Bruges. We started at the chocolate museum which took you through the history of chocolate and history of Belgian chocolate. The tour ended with a little chocolate making demo and of course some sampling of chocolate. Then we had a little lunch and made our way to a canal boat ride. The canal boat ride was a good way to get a little history lesson on Bruges and it's unique architecture. Then we found the frite museum which Oliver loved. He's has much more of a savory pallet than a sweet one. One top of that they had a fun little paly area that he was sad to leave when it was time. After sampling some more frite we headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

Lindsey and Oliver at the Chocolate Museum
Testing the chocolate
Bruges tower from the canal boat
Oliver trying to touch the tunnels on the canal boat ride
All of us on canal boat
Oliver cooking some frites
Waiting for our chef to cook our frites
Dinner was at a little grill right on one of the canals. It was a beautiful evening and what do you have on a beautiful evening in Belgium? Yes that's right frog legs. They were prepared really nicely and sort of taste like chicken. Even our adventurous little eater took part and had no problem devourering a pair of legs himself. After dinner we took a little sunset walk along the canal and made our way back to the hotel to pack up as the next day we were heading back to France.

Frog legs
Lindsey eating frog legs
Oliver eating frog legs
Last night in Bruges

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